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News from Chania, Crete

www.haniotika-nea.gr

Local News 07/09/09

In Chania

In search of… the flower of salt

“It is the purest salt that exists because it is a true creation of nature” states George Kozonakis a 45 year old who is one of the last experts on salt. He is one of a few whom during the summer months from early in the morning locate hidden beaches searching for potholes where natural salt resides and collects “chontralatso” or otherwise known as “the flower of salt”.

Such natural salt marshes are numerous in Chania, on the northern coast of the Akrotiri peninsula and the nearby islands of Gramvousa and Falasarna. Tracking down these marshes in order to gather large amounts of salt requires a strong back and legs and also an eagerness for early mornings.

Together with Mr. Kozonakis we begin our journey at 7 am at the Crossroad of the Akrotiri going north. At one point Mr. Kozonakis deems it necessary for us to go towards the edge of the sea. “From a young child I would accompany my father in order to gather salt. I keep and store some for my home and friends. In Chania there are older people who still collect salt for commercial purposes” explains Mr. Kozonakis who moves effortlessly and with great speed over the sharp rocks.

WALKING THE “ASKOURI”

“The whole art is to be able to walk on the “askouri”, the water’s edge, on the tips of the rocks. Gathering salt is a tedious process because it requires endless amounts of walking under the hot sun, searching for marshes then bending down to collect the flower of salt.” Holding a long, slotted spoon and a basket, the salt expert finds clean marshes where he picks the flower of salt found on the top-upper part of the salt flakes. “We choose remote rocky coasts with many potholes where water is constantly being recycled and kept clean not allowing for any filth to gather on the salt. Good salt is whiter than snow. It shines. When salt is not clean, it turns yellow and is visible to the naked eye” states Mr Kozonakis whom easily locates dirty marshes which are not suitable for picking salt.

BIG DIFFERENCE

“The best season is from early June until late August-early September where temperatures are high enough necessary for the thickening of salt. Gathering occurs either in the morning or at night so as to avoid being over exposed to the sun. Best times to collect salt is either 6-6:30 am and after 8 pm in the summertime”, says Mr. Kozonakis as he takes a break. He continues “for me, I also believe what many people say that this is the cleanest salt that exists because it is a creation of nature. I have grown up with this salt. You can tell the difference from the processed salt when you take a fresh tomato, cut into four pieces and season half with the hand-picked salt and the other half with the commercial one. The difference is enormous.”

“Chontroalato” can be found at farmer’s markets and also in shops in the city of Chania. It costs about 3 to 3,50 Euros a kilo and “customers especially the older ones ask for and prefer this salt.”

GASTRONOMICAL TEMPTATION

“The common table salt which we all know has been treated for it to be white, not to be affected by moisture, is cut into very fine pieces so as to be able to pour easily and abundantly and possibly has E chemicals added to it,” notes Mr. Giannis Apostolakis, board member of the Cretan Gastronomy whom also stresses that on the contrary “the flower of salt forms naturally in unaffected cavities in windswept rocks where raging sea waves fill big and small marshes then the hot sun makes the sea water evaporate and at the top of the marshes salt flakes develop. Then a taste lover with great effort and affection will come with a slotted spoon to collect these flowers. This type of salt has a natural, bright white color and a delicate salinity that cannot be compared to any other types of salt, fortified with iodine, minerals and nutrients. The flower of salt is found in bulky peppercorns or large flakes because it has not been at all processed. It allows our bodies the ability to easily absorb these nutrients and minerals while additionally is a culinary delight since it completes the taste puzzle by granting sound, color and taste to stimulate our taste buds. Other countries have distinguished the quality of this type of salt and have a greater culinary appreciation for it and pay the retail price. A good idea would be to offer clients of hotels upon their arrival a small jar with the flower of salt, a small bottle of olive oil, and a small bottle of wine from our region – they would certainly appreciate this.”

The Processing

- After harvesting, the salt is stored in a sack for a week. The sack stands upright to allow the water to rain.

- Afterwards the salt is spread out on a wooden board under the sun.

- The salt is turned over every two days in order for it to completely dry.

- It is covered and protected from bugs with tulle.

- After 15-20 days when it is completely dry, the salt is ready for consumption.

- In Crete it is known as “chontroalato” or “arapalatso”.

By George Konstas