The herb of the sea shore Critamo wins a place in Greek Cuisine

Published Thursday, August 6, 2009

“Critamo is a true treasure of the palette. A few leaves are enough to make a Greek salad even richer in taste. It should be substituted for processed condiments like mayonnaise in other salads. It grows on the beaches of the island,” states Chef and member of the Cretan Gastronomic Club, Mr. Giannis Apostolakis.

For more than a decade, the chef of the Mediterranean Culinary Institute of Chania uses Critamon as the main ingredient in his culinary creations. He believes that this product should be used even more to enhance local, traditional cuisine and can be substituted for other ingredients. He also considers Critamon “an unbeatable aphrodisiac.”

“This herb plant is not used enough in Cretan cuisine, especially in salads.” In his opinion he believes this is a mistake because it gives a more definite Greek accent and much more Mediterranean characteristics to salads. The scientific term is “crithmum maritimum”. It grows on the sea shore on top of rocks where there is little sand and can withstand strong winds while being drenched by the salt of the sea. It is a treasure of the palette for us Chefs because it is rich in aroma and also demonstrates complex flavors especially when it is fresh. It is in season during the months of June, July, August and the beginning of September. The taste of Critamon is different during the other months. It is stored in brine,” explains Mr. Apostolakis.

According to nutritionists, Critamon is rich in Vitamin C, it has diuretic and antiseptic properties. Adonis Alibertis, the author of the book “Therapeutic, Aromatic and Edible Plants of Crete” also states that the essential oil of Critamon is a very good aphrodisiac.

Lately more chefs of hotels and restaurants use Critamon in their cuisine because even more customers are becoming aware of it. The main goal of the Cretan Gastronomic Club is to establish a strong interest in and to promote even further local products.

Mr. Apostolakis, who gathers Critamon by himself from the islands’ shores, applies it to differentiate various local dishes. He states “if we gather Critamon in the summer months, we can store it in salt water and in this way it can be used during the winter. It can stand alone as an appetizer together with Ouzo or Tsikoudia. It can make tomato or potato salad even tastier. Also we can make different delicacies and have Critamon as the basic ingredient. It also adds more aromas to delicacies. Critamon is a plant known from ancient times for its healing qualities. The seed of this plant resemble barley and that is why Ancient Greeks named it crithmon (barley in ancient Greek). Well known Ancient Greeks Dioskouris and Pliny held Critamon in high regard because it contains essential oil, mineral salt, iodine and vitamins and more which all make for an appetizing salad.

Aphrodisiac

A few leaves are enough to add more flavor to a salad but also…to one’s sex life.

“I gather it before it blooms”

“I find Critamon in Nopigeia and in Drapania, in the bay of Krissamou. I gather it mostly in May and the first ten days of June, all depending on the weather, before it blooms. After I wash and clean it, I store it in salt water and vinegar. It can last in good condition for a few months,” explains Ms. Chrysanthi Kabianakis, owner of the store “Gnision Esti” which specializes in local, traditional products. Ms. Kabianakis has been commercially selling this product for the last 3-4 years. “Critamon is known by those who visit Crete. It adds a particular taste and can also be served alone with olive oil to accompany Tsikoudia (liquor) as an appetizer.

Also many restaurants use it in Cretan delicacies in Athens.”